Posted on

Myanmar: Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon

Shwedagon Pagoda is a must visit in Yangon.

The ancient temple is a source of pride for the Burmese. From the first look, I knew why. At night, the Shwedagon Pagoda is a sight to behold. The 99-meter tall (325 feet) structure stood like a titan against the black backdrop. In flickering candlelight and orange incandescent, the golden pagoda, stupas, and temples gleam like the center of the sun.

The sky was sprinkling rain. We began our journey by leaving our shoes at the entrance. It is a common and expected practice when entering any temples or homes in Southeast Asia. The floors were slippery but the temple lined a path of non-skid plastic tiles for its visitors to walk on. While the hard plastic dug into my feet making it painful to walk on, it was better than falling on my face.

We navigated through the rain and worshippers who came from various corners of the world to see this famous sight. Around us are sounds of chanting, little boy monks playing, and bell tolling. The smell of incense permeated the air.

Our guide, Thar Thar, from LM Travel Myanmar told us that the Shwedagon Pagoda contains the hair relic, staff, water filter, and robe of Buddha. And according to legend, it was built over 2,500 years ago, making it the oldest in the world. Historians and archaeologists disagreed. They maintained that the pagoda was built by the Mon people between the 6th and 10th centuries AD. Regardless of its age, the Burmese consider this ancient place the most sacred pagoda in Myanmar.

The pagoda is plated with real gold and its top, the umbrella crown, is encrusted with over 2,000 rubies and 5,000 diamonds, the largest of which is 76 carats. All were donations from Buddhist believers. My friend, Laurie, asked our guide whether the temple worries someone would steal the treasure. Thar Thar replied that once the people gave the gift, they no longer think of them. It is a practice in letting go.

Buddhism teaches that human struggles stem from attachment: to things, to people, to our own ego. Sometimes the weight of it all can prevent us from moving forward. I am not a Buddhist but I do agree that the practice of letting go is a healthy exercise for the mind. While it is not easy nor pleasant to detach, learning to do so would lead to a true acceptance of the impermanence of life.

At the end of our visit, Thar Thar led us to a quiet corner of a veranda. It was a good spot to absorb the peaceful vibration in the air. This place leaves a strong impression. For generations, it serves as a witness to periods of wars and peace in one of the oldest civilization in the world. I wondered whether it would it stand for another millennium. Where would our humanity be then?

Click here on how to travel Myanmar in 7 days.  
Posted on

Myanmar: Yangon street food tour

My first impression of Yangon was that the city reminded me a bit of Thailand 30 years ago. When there were fewer skyscrapers and freeways. When old trees and dilapidated colonial buildings peppered the streets that had just begun to experience the glut of cars and before it would become world-renowned as the infamous Bangkok traffic. My two friends and I stayed in the city center near Chinatown where houses of worship for Buddhists, Hindus, Christians, and Muslims are seen from one street corner.

Like America, Myanmar was a colony of England. From 1824 to 1948 it undergone wars with the British, became known as a province of British India, and finally gained independence after WWII and Japanese rule like many Southeast Asian countries. Reminders of British imperialism are in government offices, abandoned buildings with ferns growing from the windows of what may have once been the drawing-room of a colonial officer’s family, and right-hand drive cars.

The people are friendly. Many men wear longyi, a cloth around their waist worn like a skirt. Some women wear yellow powder called Thanaka on their faces. Dressing is conservative with arms and legs often covered. Smiles are not hard to find.

We ate our way through street vendors in a market. Boiled offal. Tea leaf salad with peanuts. Durian. Deep fried Indian snacks. Coconut pancakes. The offal was not my first choice, but the many stalls filled with patrons proved the dish popular among locals. It was available in both beef and pork, so I was glad to have our guide with us to make sure I did not inadvertently eat the wrong meat.

It was sold by the stick with each being between 100-200 kyat ($0.07-0.15 U.S.) and came with a bowl of soup used to dip the meat in. The tea leaf salad or Lahpet Thoke has a flavor profile unlike anything I had ever tasted before. It was earthy, slightly bitter, with a citrus aftertaste. The crunchiness of the peanuts and fried garlic contrasted with the softness of the corn and tomatoes. The 500 kyat ($0.37 U.S.) dish was flavorful and nutritious, yet affordable.

The durian here was less crispy than the Thai variety both Laurie and I know and love. But at 2,000 kyat each ($1.46), it was the cheapest durian we ever came across. The flavor was delicious and on point. But for those who are not used to it, it may smell like stinky feet or rotten onion.

Here, the personalities of my traveling companions came to best exemplify them. Laurie did not hesitate to sit at a food stall or try chewing betel nut. Bobby, however, was constantly whispering in the background asking whether it was a good idea to be eating or drinking whatever our guide gave us. I think the combination of both caution and thirst for experience will serve our group well as we travel through this beautiful country.