Posted on

Vietnam: Hanoi through the eyes of an Asian-American

How did it feel to be in a country where ‘Communism’ is not a bad word? Not that different.

Vietnam first entered most Americans’ hearts and minds in the 60’s when the U.S. decided to participate in the struggle for Vietnam’s independence. Except we were on the wrong side – the side of our ally, the French, who for almost 60 years had ruled this gem of Southeast Asia as a colony.

Our reason: If Vietnam fell to Communism, the rest of Southeast Asia would follow. We were in the middle of the Cold War with Russia. Many of the SE Asia countries were young at self-governing and possibly impressionable. After all, China is right next door.

 

On the other side was Ho Chi Minh, an influential leader inspired by the teaching of Karl Marx and the Socialist Party of France. He led the Vietnamese revolution for independence. He was a key figure in establishing the Viet Mihn, the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, the People’s Army of Vietnam, and the Viet Cong. Ho Chi Minh had the North Vietnamese behind him. The south had a government backed by the U.S., which was not much better than an autocracy. I’m paraphrasing, but in short, the country plunged into a civil war.

Labels were thrown around: Democracy, Communism, Patriotism, Loyalty. Lines were drawn. Teams were picked. Each side branded the other as evil. Many, many lives were lost. Unification of the country came at a very high cost – many South Vietnamese, together with its army, were displaced from their homes.

So, what is this Communist country like in 2017? As I walked around Hanoi I could not help but think that it is not much different than Thailand: cafes and shops littering the sidewalks, cars, and motorbikes cluttering the streets, productive people hustling to work. There is a posh tree-lined street with a high-end mall selling European labels where a security guard made sure only those who belong were allowed in.

Free-market and the bourgeoisie systems are alive and well here, at least on a small scale. I am not an expert on how its government runs the country, but on the surface, the streets of Hanoi did not represent the scariness the word ‘Communism’ conjures in the West. In fact, Hanoi is charming. Lovable, even. And the food was magnificent.

We are lucky in California where the large Vietnamese community brought with it the wonderful tradition of cooking fresh, delicious South Vietnamese food. But until I ate Phở in Hanoi, I did not know that it is served differently in the north. Here, it has different sauces and topped with only with green onions instead of with a side of a giant plate of vegetables. Northern foods are milder than in the south, with some stand-out seafood dishes. And the coffee was so strong it made my hands shake.

 

What I miss the most about Hanoi:

  • Nộm Thịt Bò Khô, dried beef over green papaya salad, at Long Vi Dung

  • Eating fresh Phở noodles in the early morning at any Phở stall filled with people

  • Watching senior citizens doing the Macarena in the morning hours at the park at Hoàn Kiếm Lake

 

What I do not miss about Hanoi:

  • Bars on all the windows at both our Airbnb apartments in the Old Quarter and the French Quarter

  • The padlocks they placed on gates and front doors at night. What if there’s a fire?

  • The rain (although it was an excuse to stop at a coffee shop)

  • Walking through the dark and dire Hao Lo Prison with its dungeon and guillotine

  • Crossing the streets where cars and motorbikes weave around you instead of stop

 

Hanoi is an easy place to visit, and probably almost as easy to live in. It has history and culture. It has shopping and food. All the conveniences of any city. That is if you enjoy its high energy fueled by coffee as dark as mud and as addictive as adrenaline.

Posted on

How to travel Myanmar in 7 days

Myanmar is an old country with a recorded history that goes back hundreds of years. Its culture is complex and its government policies intricate. I’ve read the news. I know about the military’s treatment of its people, reporters, and occasional tourists. I was worried. But there’s a way to do it safely and responsibly. Here’s what I did in  7 days.

About Myanmar

When I was growing up in Thailand, I learned about the long history of warfare between the Thais and Burmese. When I think of the Thai-Burmese relationship I see images of ransacked cities, gold melting off pagodas, and dead elephants and soldiers. But the reality is often more complicated.

Like America, Myanmar was a colony of England. From 1824 to 1948 it underwent wars with the British and became known as a province of British India. It finally gained independence after WWII and Japanese rule like several southeast Asian countries. Colonialism marred it, just like it did its many neighbors. Until recently, the country had been under one military regime after another, with much of its spending siphoned to the military at the cost of infrastructure. Based on UNICEF report in 2012-13 fiscal year, it has spent 29% of its entire budget for the defense forces, while the education sector received just 11%, the health sector 5.7%, and social welfare at 0.29%.

The 2015 election granted the overwhelming majority seats to the National League of Democracy. Since then, efforts have been made to reallocate its spending. Although evidence of its past decisions is apparent in potholed roads and homelessness.

Civil unrest and disputes between its people dominate Myanmar’s past and present. There are more than 135 ethnic groups in Myanmar, with 7 being the largest minority nationalities: The Chin, the Kachin, the Karenni (sometimes called Kayah), the Karen (sometimes called Kayin), the Mon, the Rakhine, and the Shan. Each group has their own language, culture, and history, making up Myanmar’s rich tapestry. Yet, not all tribes are recognized and not all the people who were born there its citizens.

So how does one navigate through this rich and beautiful land rife with conflict? Answer: With a combination of caution and thirst for experience, together with help from local guides. Hiring guides was not something we normally do. But we were glad we did. In doing so, we were able to cover a large section of the country and sample the many flavors this wonderful place has to offer. Click on the links to see the detailed travel log of each day.

Day 1: Yangon – Street food tour and Shwedagon Pagoda

A street food tour is a must for anyone visiting any country. Yangon is special for its architecture of dilapidated colonial buildings mixed in with modern skyscrapers. We walked around neighborhoods, ate authentic street food frequented by locals, and hung out in a park in the middle of the city. Afterward, we visited the Shwedagon Pagoda at night to experience the peaceful vibration at one of the most famous Buddhist sites in the world.

Day 2: Yangon – Botataung temple, fisherman’s village

A bombing during WWII in 1943 destroyed Botataung temple. It was only rebuilt after Myanmar gained independence in 1948. A special place among Burmese, you can find worshippers pray wedged in various corners of the gilded temple. After, we took the ferry across the Yangon River to a fisherman’s village and a non-profit boarding school that educates children from ages 5-13 from all over Myanmar.

Day 3: Bagan – the ancient city

Bagan is an ancient archeological city that was the seat of the Pagan kingdom from the 9th to the 13th centuries. At its height, there were over 10,000 Buddhist temples, of which 3,122 remained. It is a must visit for admirers of history and Buddhism. Yangon to Bagan was also my first of many overnight bus rides in Myanmar.

Day 4: Bagan sunrise and Mount Popa

Witnessing the beauty of the morning rays peeling open the cloak of darkness and bathing the valley with warm orange light, revealing red brick temple tops and its green surrounding, was the apex of my trip. Afterward, we drove a few hours to Mount Popa where we climbed up 777 steps to the top and watched a rainbow arch over the majestic landscape after heavy rainfall.

Day 5: Shan State and Pindaya Cave

After another sleepless night in an overnight bus from Bagan in Mandalay State to Shan State, we drove to Pindaya Cave. The stalactite cave has 10,000 Buddha images climbing up its sides, with the oldest estimated to be from the 17th century.

Day 6: Inle Lake

Inle Lake was the most touristy spot we visited in Myanmar. But it is still worth a trip. We spent our day riding in a jewel-colored long-tail boat through the beautiful lake. We visited temples, monastery, and villages on stilts.

Day 7: Phaungdawoo temple, Shwe Indein Village

A graveyard of a thousand stupas surrounding a village called Shwe Indein. Check. A market where one can buy green tea leaves and wild turmeric from hill tribe’s women for a song. Check. Another beautiful ride along Inle Lake. Check.

Our trip to Myanmar has been unforgettable. The people are kind, the food delicious, and the bus rides hellish. There is still an innocence to the country which I suspect may change as it becomes more touristy. The people smile openly and are generous with stories. Regardless of the politics of this country, I was reminded that people and government do not always share an ideology. Each person just wants to live their life peacefully and hold their loved ones close to their heart.

Myanmar, may you never lose the best parts of yourself.