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What to eat in New Orleans when you can’t taste a thing

This winter comes with a bad flu season. I was one such unlucky soul who had the flu that hit me like a Category 5 Hurricane deserving of a name. Then it morphed into a mean cold that left me weak and miserable. I couldn’t eat, barely slept, and felt like my inside was rotting. After I emerged from its claws, I was left a few pounds lighter and with a disabled taste palate.

But I had a girl trip planned. For those of us lucky enough to have loyal girlfriends we’ve known for most our lives, we know girl trips are sacred. It is when good friends dig themselves out of the heap of their busy lives to meet in one place and reconnect. Spend quality time. Have fun. So, I couldn’t miss it unless I was dying. And I was past death’s door.

This year we decided on New Orleans. Except for one, none of us had ever been there. We picked it for its jazz scene, the backdrop of French and Spanish colonial architecture, and its famous Creole food.

New Orleans’ heritage

New Orleans has an amazing history that speaks to its multi-lingual and multi-cultural heritage. It was a French colony founded in 1718. In 1763, the French ceded it to the Spanish Empire in the Treaty of Paris. Then it went back to the French in 1803. Shortly after, Napoleon sold it to the United States as part of the Louisiana Purchase. A flood of immigrants followed. Anglo-Americans, Germans, and Irish joined the Creole French and Spaniards, the refugees from Haiti, the Native Americans, the Mulattos or mixed-race people, and the Black slaves.

As one of the biggest southern ports, the city played a significant role in the slave trade. New Orleans was the nation’s largest slave market that supplied the surrounding sugarcane plantations and the rest in the south. The Civil War and the Emancipation Proclamation abolishing slavery changed its fabric. Many slaves left the plantations to join the Union military. Plantation owners lost a livelihood that fed their lavish antebellum estates and lifestyle. Slaves’ lives were no longer counted a part of New Orleans’ wealth. Over time it experienced a decline as more people migrated to the West coast where industries were growing.

With its unique culture and rich history, New Orleans has always been on my list of places to visit. I almost went there in 2005, but Hurricane Katrina happened. It devastated the city, drowning 80% of its land and killing 1,464 of its people. What it did not do was erase the friendly nature of its people nor ruin the strength of its spirit.

Twelve years later, I finally had my chance to experience New Orleans. I had dreams of eating fried chicken for breakfast, a mountain of crawfish for lunch, Étouffée for dinner, and beignets for midnight snack. But when my taste palate had short circuited and I could barely taste a thing, I had to re-jigger my plan.

Here’s a short list of the foods that I enjoyed. They woke up my pathetic palate, comforted my tummy and sandpaper-y throat, and fed my soul.

Citrus roasted chicken at Café Amelie

This cute restaurant was my first introduction to New Orleans’ culinary scene. Located in the French Quarter, it boasts a beautiful courtyard. At night it is lit with small hanging lights, making the setting romantic and dreamy. I usually do not order chicken at restaurants but I wanted something that was not going to shock my still battle-scarred throat. I was pleasantly surprised that I liked this simple dish as much as I did. The chicken was juicy and soft. The mashed potatoes that accompanied it was creamy and buttery. It was a sweet ‘hello, nice to meet you’ from the city.

Address: 912 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA

Raw oysters at Red Fish Grill

New Orleans is famous for its oysters. And I ate plenty of them. At 75 cents each during Happy Hour, the oysters at Red Fish Grill were cheap and cheerful. The fresh and sweet shellfish came with lemon wedges and cocktail sauce laced with horseradish. The ice-cold oysters went down smooth and soothed my throat.

Address: 115 Bourbon Street, New Orleans, LA

Chargrilled oysters at Acme Oyster House

Saturated in garlic, herb butter, and topped with a blend of cheeses, the chargrilled oysters were one of my favorite dishes in New Orleans. It came with slices of bread to soak up the delicious, ecstasy-induced sauce. We loved it so much we ordered it twice. I still think of it sometimes.

Address: 724 Iberville Street, New Orleans, LA 

Shrimp bisque soup and Strawberry Shortcake at The Commander’s Palace

The Commander’s Palace has been an institution since 1893. With its robin’s egg blue Victorian architecture, you cannot miss this stately building in the Garden district. Most people go there for the 25-cent martinis. We went there after our walk at La Fayette Cemetery Number 1 where a part of “Interview with a Vampire” was filmed. The highlight at the Commander’s Palace was our waiter, Lorenzo. Originally from France, he migrated here in a move he called ‘destiny’. He treated us like special friends, embraced us with his gracious hospitality, and made recommendations that were thoughtful and surprising. He even escorted us to the restroom. What a gentleman!

The shrimp bisque soup was a soup du jour, and I was glad I ordered it. Its creaminess was balanced by the acidity from the tomato base. The shrimp was sautéed separately and had a delicious salty flavor. It was warm and comforting, just like our service. The shortcake is made of local fresh strawberries, served with buttermilk biscuit and topped with Chantilly whipped cream. It was a perfect ending to our meal.

Address: 1403 Washington Avenue, New Orleans, LA

Beignet and Café Au Lait at Café Du Monde

The 24-hour café sells my favorite beignets. They are crispy on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside. They’re served piping hot with a coat of powdered sugar that woke me up at first bite. But what I enjoyed even more was the Café Au Lait. It is mixed with chicory, a perennial herb that lives as a wild plant on roadsides in its native Europe. The Creole French developed this mix during the Civil War when coffee was a rare commodity. It softens the bitter flavor and adds almost a chocolate flavor, making the coffee nutty and mellow.

Address: 800 Decatur Street, New Orleans, LA

Chicken St. Charles Egg Benedict at the Ruby Slipper Café

Here was my chance to have fried chicken for breakfast. The Chicken St. Charles is made of fried chicken breast over a warm and crispy buttermilk biscuit, topped with two poached eggs. It was a quintessential southern dish, rich in calories and flavors.

Address: 1005 Canal Street, New Orleans, LA

Sukiyaki noodle soup at Sukhothai restaurant

Sukiyaki was originally a Japanese dish that transformed into one of the favorites in Thailand. It is a light soup made with vegetables, glass noodles, and seafood. What makes this dish special is the sauce of chili paste, fermented soybean, pickled garlic, sesame seeds, and cilantro. It’s not usually served in Thai restaurants in the U.S. We found Sukhothai in the Old French Quarter. The food there tasted as good as Thai food can be outside of the country. I ordered this dish mild with a side of extra sauce instead of the nuclear spiciness I usually enjoy, and it was delicious.

Address: 2200 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA

While I was disappointed in myself for not having my healthy taste palate in New Orleans, I made the best of it with what this diverse culinary city has to offer. I do plan to revisit and have a do over. Watch out New Orleans!

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Not-So-Basic Fettuccini Alfredo Recipe

I was 18 years old and on my own, a half-starved and broke college student living in my first apartment in Glassboro, NJ. My Dad was in town for a business meeting and coming over for dinner. My Dad liked “fine” things. What could I make that would impress him? What could I place in front of him that would say I’m all grown up and look how worldly I have become?

The internet didn’t exist at the time, so I trolled the only aisle in my grocery store that I could afford – the pasta aisle. And there I found my first box of Fettuccini (wow! how gourmet!) with a little recipe on the back. There would be no ramen noodles for Dad on this night! This is creamy, rich upscale stuff here. I spent ¾ of my weekly food budget to buy all the ingredients and some fresh green beans for this all important meal.

Well, as it turns out, Dad made Fettuccini Alfredo all the time – huh, guess I wasn’t the worldly and refined person I was pretending to be. He looked at my recipe and the available ingredients and said you have to change this part – pointing to the amount of cream. The rest is history and this is how I mastered the art of excellent Fettuccini Alfredo.

The flat, wide shape of Fettuccini pasta originated in Rome in the early to mid 20th century and means Little Ribbons. Originally the recipe contained only Parmesan cheese and butter. When the dish became popular in the Unites States, cream was incorporated.

When my friends come to visit, they always request this meal. This is one of the few dishes my insanely picky children will eat voluntarily. Add some shrimp and scallops sautéed in garlic and wine or small pieces of sautéed chicken tenderloin for added protein. Feeling nostalgic? Add some freshly grated nutmeg to the sauce. There are a million ways to dress up this basic dish. Want to make your own pasta from scratch? Here is my favorite recipe.

I have kept this recipe secret for years because it is the only thing I can claim greatness in. Once my mother-in-law asked me for the recipe and I was about to give it to her, when I thought, what? No! This must remain my legacy! I mean, I have no great claim to fame and I don’t even particularly like my mother-in-law. Why would I share it with her? Well, you get older, kinder and wiser – and my mother-in-law doesn’t surf the web – so maybe it’s time to share.

Fettuccini Alfredo is a cheap, easy and quick meal. My one word of advice is this – get the best Parmigiano-Reggiano (Parmesan in the US) cheese you can get your hands on and grate it yourself. If it comes from Italy, scoop it up because it’s the real deal. You have to grate the cheese yourself, thereby adding the love, to make this recipe work.

Buon Appetito!

Ready in 25 minutes

Serves 6  people

Yummy Fresh Flat leaf parsley

Ingredients

  • ½ cup (1 stick) salted butter
  • ¾ cup heavy whipping cream
  • 8 oz. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
  • 1 pound dry Fettuccini noodles
  • 2-3 tablespoons chopped Italian flat leaf parsley
  • 1/8 teaspoon white pepper
Chopped parsley
About to add the cheese

Preparation

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Cook your noodles to package instructions (usually 9 minutes for a la dente).
  2. While your pasta is cooking, in a medium sauce pan over medium heat, begin to melt the butter. Add heavy whipping cream and stir with a spatula or wooden spoon for 3-4 minutes to incorporate. Reduce temperature slightly and add in the freshly grated parmesan cheese. Continue to stir until cheese begins to melt and incorporate, about 3 to 4 minutes more. Stir in white pepper to taste and chopped flat leaf parsley. The entire process should take around 8 minutes.
  3. Drain pasta well in a colander and place in a large pasta bowl.
  4. Immediately pour the cream sauce over the mixture and combine well, making sure all those lovely strands are tossed and coated with cheesy goodness.
  5. Serve immediately because good pasta waits for no one!
Toss the yumminess
All gone!
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Recipe for Vietnamese Chả Cá La Vong (Turmeric Fish with Dills)

I don’t consider myself a Chef but I do find myself in the kitchen whenever I feel inspired by the food I’ve eaten around the world or at new local restaurants. I recently visited Hanoi for a second time in October with my good friends.  Hanoi is known for its amazing food scene and we were on a hunt for a Must Eat, “Chả Cá La Vong”.

We found it at a restaurant called Chả Cá Thăng Long. The smell of the turmeric fish and an abundance of fresh dill cooked in front of us was one of the highlights of our trip! Of course, we washed it down with ice-cold Hanoi beer after!  As I took a big bite in my mouth, I thought about the wild turmeric powder that I recently bought from a local tribe in Myanmar before visiting Hanoi. This has inspired me even more to replicate this dish.

Although Jimmy, my husband does not like fish and won’t allow me to cook it inside the house, that doesn’t stop me! (evil laugh). I’ve always been a big fan of Vietnamese food because they use fresh simple ingredients and lots of herbs and vegetables. I’ve created a simple recipe for Chả Cá La Vong with wild turmeric from Myanmar (don’t worry…any turmeric will do) and I hope you will enjoy it as much as my husband did!

Ready in 30 minutes

Serves 3-4  people

Ingredients

Tip: you can find most ingredients at your local Asian markets.

For the marinade

  • 500 g catfish cut into 2×2  inch pieces
  • 1 tsp turmeric powder
  • 3 tbsp minced galangal
  • 2 tsp rice flour
  • 1 tbsp plain greek yogurt
  • 1 tsp fermented shrimp paste
  • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
  • ½ tsp white pepper

For the dipping sauce

  • ½ cup of  fish sauce
  • 4  tbsp sugar
  • ½  cup of (warm) water
  • 1 tsp minced garlic and Thai chili
  • 2-3 tbsp lime juice

Others

  • 10 scallions ( white part shredded, green part cut into 3-inch lengths)
  • 3.5 oz dill cut into 3-in length
  • 500 g rice vermicelli cooked
  • Fresh herbs: Vietnamese balm “rau kinh gioi” (perilla), Vietnamese mint (rau ram), cilantro and mint
  • roasted peanuts
  • vegetable oil for deep-frying

Preparation

  1. Mix all ingredients for the marinade and combine with the fish. Let it marinate overnight in the refrigerator (if you’re short on time, 1-2 hours is sufficient)
  2. Place the marinated fish on the grill/bake in a preheated oven at 200°F/400°F for 7-10 minutes.
  3. To make dipping sauce: Combine sugar, fish sauce, sugar, water, garlic & Thai fresh chilies, mix well. While constantly stirring, squeeze in lime juice (you can customize the dipping sauce as you like – I prefer more lime juice).
  4. On the dining table, prepare a pan with some vegetable oil heating on a portable stove, the prepared scallions and dills, peanuts, rice vermicelli and dipping sauce.
  5. Fry the fish in the hot oil (high heat) till the outside turns golden brown. Add scallions and dill.
  6. To serve, place some rice vermicelli in a serving bowl. Top with fish, scallions, and dill. Drizzle some dipping sauce and some roasted peanuts for extra texture and crunch. Mix well and serve with fresh herbs.
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Recipe for your left-over Thanksgiving turkey: Indonesian Lontong and Turkey Curry

Since I talked about Thai food last week, this week I feel compelled to bring you Indonesian food. And because it’s Thanksgiving week, I’m going to honor the turkey as well.

While I never grew up in Indonesia, a country made up of over 17,000 islands, I was raised on the food. I was a fourth generation Indonesian in Kampong Java, an Indonesian enclave in the heart of Bangkok, Thailand. Our family house is a stone’s throw from a mosque, Masjid Java. In a country where glittering gold Buddhist temples dot the landscape, living next to a mosque with a multi-tier roof mimicking Javanese architecture was pretty special.

 

Our neighbors were also Indonesian-Thais who had been there for generations. Most everyone has two names: a Muslim name used at home and a Thai name used at school and work. On special occasions, we dress in Indonesian batik and kabaya, a blouse made of intricate lace.

While I was growing up, life in the neighborhood revolved around special occasions: births, weddings, birthdays, Qur’an graduation, deaths. Before Bangkok exploded into the metropolis it is today, before 8-foot concrete fences were erected between houses, I remember a time when the women of Kampong Java would get together to cook meals for these special events. They worked together to cut meat, vegetables, and heaps of garlic. One would handle the fryer, another manned the rice, while another took care of the curry. The sound of chatting and laughing could be heard a block away, quieted only when the mosque announced the azaan, the call to prayer.

The food that came out of their kitchens was gorgeous. There were boiled eggs dyed red on top of yellow rice for birthdays, aromatic goat curry for the Feast of Sacrifice, and lontong with vegetable coconut curry for Eid al-Fitr. Lontong is traditionally made by pressing rice soaked in water into a cylinder made of banana leaf, and boiling until cooked. Once done, the rice would be unwrapped and cut into pieces to eat with mild curry as a main dish or drizzled with syrupy brown sugar and topped with grated coconut as dessert. Growing up here when I did taught me about the beauty of food, tradition, and comradery played to the background of Muslim and Buddhist chants.

The problem with that is I am ruined. Nothing would ever measure up to the perfection of my memory when it comes to Indonesian food. And there are no restaurants that serve lontong within a 50-mile radius. The dilemma is very much like an American looking for Thanksgiving turkey in Thailand (the position we were in in 2016).

So, what would a person who doesn’t like to cook do when she craves food from her memory that she cannot get in San Diego County? She makes it up with the help of a tiny Indonesian food section at 99 Ranch. And like most food I make, this does not require too much effort.

Ingredients:

Lontong

  • Uncooked rice cake (Nona brand)

Curry (lodeh)

  • Turkey –1 lb cubed (or use left-over Thanksgiving turkey cut into pieces)
  • Lodeh vegetable stew sauce (Bamboe brand) – 2 packs
  • Coconut cream (Mae Ploy brand) – 1 can
  • Dry minced garlic – 1 tbs
  • Fish sauce (Phu Quoc brand if available) – 1 Tbs
  • Water – 2 cans (use coconut cream can to measure)
  • Bamboo shoots (Aroy-D brand in slices) – 1 can
  • French green beans – 20 cut into 1/3 length
  • Cabbage – ½ a head cut into strips
  • 5 kefir lime leaves – torn for fragrance
  • 4 boiled eggs – halved to top the curry
  • Fried shallots to top

Instructions:

60 minutes cooking time for rice

Follow instruction on the bag

20 minutes cooking time for curry

In a pot, mix 1/3 can of coconut with 1 package of Lodeh curry sauce and dry minced garlic

Once chicken is half done, add the remaining coconut cream and mix thoroughly

Bring to boil

Add 1 can of water using the coconut cream can

Add another package of Lodeh curry sauce

Add bamboo shoots, cabbage, and green beans

Add 1 more can of water – consistency should be almost soupy

Add 1 Tbs fish sauce

Bring to boil

Add kefir lime leaves

Taste then add more fish sauce if you want it to be saltier or add more water if you want it to be milder

To serve: cut the rice cake into cubes, add curry and fried shallots

 

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A story about Thai chicken green curry (with recipe)

When I tell strangers I’m Thai, one of the first things they tell me is that they love Thai food. My reply is usually, ‘so do I’. What’s not to like about Thai food?

I grew up in Bangkok, a crossroad of Asian cuisines. For many years I was raised by one of the best cooks in the world – my paternal grandmother, Yupa. She was part Indonesian, part Chinese, and part Thai (although I’m not sure of the percentages). And her cooking was as diverse as her blood.

Grandmother is 2nd from left, back row

She was always in the kitchen preparing meals for her family using fresh ingredients bought at the wet market each morning. She would give me a precise list of what to buy, down to the color and number of chili peppers. And I would know by looking at it what we’d have for dinner.

To a child of eleven, the wet market in the morning was like a perfectly choreographed musical. Sellers sang the names of their goods. Bells tinkled as bicycles weave through the crowd. Steam rose from metal drums filled with soy milk and porridge. Stalls lined up one after another in an explosion of colors and textures.

 

Each stall was specialized. I would have to go to five, sometimes, six stalls to get all the ingredients for one dish. One for chicken and beef. A couple for vegetables and herbs. One for shrimp paste. A store just for coconut. Everything was as fresh as they can be.

Many of my clearest childhood memories are from that wet market. The sound of cleaver severing meat from bones. The bright saffron color of monks’ robes. The scent of coconut meat going through the grinder. I can still smell it. Creamy and earthy, with a tinge of burnt wood.

Curry was one of my grandmother’s staple dishes. To make the curry paste, she would wrap shrimp paste in banana leaf and grill it over an open flame before blending it with a mixture of garlic, shallots, galangal, and chili pepper I had pounded with stone mortar and pestle. For coconut milk, she would massage the ground coconut with water until the liquid turn opaque white. She did not follow instructions from a cookbook. There was none in our house. She cooked with her taste buds and her talented hands.

Despite having spent countless hours in the kitchen as a child, I don’t like to cook. Unlike my grandmother, I don’t have the fortitude nor a lot of time and energy to spend in the kitchen. But I love to eat and I have a good taste palate. So, when duty calls, I go for dishes that are high in flavors and low in fussiness – those that meet the 80/20 Rule. If I can get 80% satisfaction from 20% input, the dish will be a part of my repertoire.

One of my signature dishes is chicken green curry. And it’s pretty awesome. I have shared the recipe with several friends and it has become a staple in their homes as well. It’s not my grandmother’s green curry but you can make it in 20 minutes. I have even made it in 15 minutes under duress.

Without the luxury of a wet market, I use canned coconut milk, curry paste, and bamboo shoots (picture above). They can easily be found at 99 Ranch or Vietnamese market. I highly recommend going during the week. They’re zoos on the weekends.

Ingredients:

  • Cooking oil – 1 Tbs
  • Garlic – minced 3-4 cloves
  • Green curry paste (Mae Ploy brand) – 2 Tbs or more
  • Coconut cream (Mae Ploy brand)
  • Boneless Chicken breast – 1 ½ – 2 lbs chopped into small pieces
  • Fish sauce (Phu Quoc brand if available) – 3 Tbs
  • Chicken broth – ½ can
  • Bamboo shoots (Aroy-D brand in strips) – 1 can drained and rinsed
  • Peas and carrots – ¼ bag frozen
  • Thai eggplants – 10 fresh and quartered (if available)
  • Red bell peppers – 1 sliced into strips
  • Brown sugar – ½ teaspoon
  • 1-2 sprigs Basil leaves and 6 kefir lime leaves – whole leaves (if available)

20 minutes cooking time

In a pot, heat oil and cook garlic until light brown

Add 2 Tbs green curry paste, mix with garlic

Add 1 can of coconut cream, mix thoroughly with curry paste until pale green in color and allow to boil

Add chicken and 2 Tbs fish sauce, reserve the rest to taste

Once boil add ½ can of chicken broth

Add Bamboo shoots, Thai eggplants, peas and carrots

Sprinkle in brown sugar

Taste, then add more curry paste if you want it to be spicier and more fish sauce if you want it to be saltier, or add more chicken broth if you want it to be milder

Add sliced red bell pepper

Let boil once more, then sprinkle with basil leaves and kefir lime leaves

Enjoy!

I’d love to hear your experience in making this dish in the comment section.

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Vietnam: Hanoi through the eyes of an Asian-American

How did it feel to be in a country where ‘Communism’ is not a bad word? Not that different.

Vietnam first entered most Americans’ hearts and minds in the 60’s when the U.S. decided to participate in the struggle for Vietnam’s independence. Except we were on the wrong side – the side of our ally, the French, who for almost 60 years had ruled this gem of Southeast Asia as a colony.

Our reason: If Vietnam fell to Communism, the rest of Southeast Asia would follow. We were in the middle of the Cold War with Russia. Many of the SE Asia countries were young at self-governing and possibly impressionable. After all, China is right next door.

 

On the other side was Ho Chi Minh, an influential leader inspired by the teaching of Karl Marx and the Socialist Party of France. He led the Vietnamese revolution for independence. He was a key figure in establishing the Viet Mihn, the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, the People’s Army of Vietnam, and the Viet Cong. Ho Chi Minh had the North Vietnamese behind him. The south had a government backed by the U.S., which was not much better than an autocracy. I’m paraphrasing, but in short, the country plunged into a civil war.

Labels were thrown around: Democracy, Communism, Patriotism, Loyalty. Lines were drawn. Teams were picked. Each side branded the other as evil. Many, many lives were lost. Unification of the country came at a very high cost – many South Vietnamese, together with its army, were displaced from their homes.

So, what is this Communist country like in 2017? As I walked around Hanoi I could not help but think that it is not much different than Thailand: cafes and shops littering the sidewalks, cars, and motorbikes cluttering the streets, productive people hustling to work. There is a posh tree-lined street with a high-end mall selling European labels where a security guard made sure only those who belong were allowed in.

Free-market and the bourgeoisie systems are alive and well here, at least on a small scale. I am not an expert on how its government runs the country, but on the surface, the streets of Hanoi did not represent the scariness the word ‘Communism’ conjures in the West. In fact, Hanoi is charming. Lovable, even. And the food was magnificent.

We are lucky in California where the large Vietnamese community brought with it the wonderful tradition of cooking fresh, delicious South Vietnamese food. But until I ate Phở in Hanoi, I did not know that it is served differently in the north. Here, it has different sauces and topped with only with green onions instead of with a side of a giant plate of vegetables. Northern foods are milder than in the south, with some stand-out seafood dishes. And the coffee was so strong it made my hands shake.

 

What I miss the most about Hanoi:

  • Nộm Thịt Bò Khô, dried beef over green papaya salad, at Long Vi Dung

  • Eating fresh Phở noodles in the early morning at any Phở stall filled with people

  • Watching senior citizens doing the Macarena in the morning hours at the park at Hoàn Kiếm Lake

 

What I do not miss about Hanoi:

  • Bars on all the windows at both our Airbnb apartments in the Old Quarter and the French Quarter

  • The padlocks they placed on gates and front doors at night. What if there’s a fire?

  • The rain (although it was an excuse to stop at a coffee shop)

  • Walking through the dark and dire Hao Lo Prison with its dungeon and guillotine

  • Crossing the streets where cars and motorbikes weave around you instead of stop

 

Hanoi is an easy place to visit, and probably almost as easy to live in. It has history and culture. It has shopping and food. All the conveniences of any city. That is if you enjoy its high energy fueled by coffee as dark as mud and as addictive as adrenaline.

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Myanmar: Yangon street food tour

My first impression of Yangon was that the city reminded me a bit of Thailand 30 years ago. When there were fewer skyscrapers and freeways. When old trees and dilapidated colonial buildings peppered the streets that had just begun to experience the glut of cars and before it would become world-renowned as the infamous Bangkok traffic. My two friends and I stayed in the city center near Chinatown where houses of worship for Buddhists, Hindus, Christians, and Muslims are seen from one street corner.

Like America, Myanmar was a colony of England. From 1824 to 1948 it undergone wars with the British, became known as a province of British India, and finally gained independence after WWII and Japanese rule like many Southeast Asian countries. Reminders of British imperialism are in government offices, abandoned buildings with ferns growing from the windows of what may have once been the drawing-room of a colonial officer’s family, and right-hand drive cars.

The people are friendly. Many men wear longyi, a cloth around their waist worn like a skirt. Some women wear yellow powder called Thanaka on their faces. Dressing is conservative with arms and legs often covered. Smiles are not hard to find.

We ate our way through street vendors in a market. Boiled offal. Tea leaf salad with peanuts. Durian. Deep fried Indian snacks. Coconut pancakes. The offal was not my first choice, but the many stalls filled with patrons proved the dish popular among locals. It was available in both beef and pork, so I was glad to have our guide with us to make sure I did not inadvertently eat the wrong meat.

It was sold by the stick with each being between 100-200 kyat ($0.07-0.15 U.S.) and came with a bowl of soup used to dip the meat in. The tea leaf salad or Lahpet Thoke has a flavor profile unlike anything I had ever tasted before. It was earthy, slightly bitter, with a citrus aftertaste. The crunchiness of the peanuts and fried garlic contrasted with the softness of the corn and tomatoes. The 500 kyat ($0.37 U.S.) dish was flavorful and nutritious, yet affordable.

The durian here was less crispy than the Thai variety both Laurie and I know and love. But at 2,000 kyat each ($1.46), it was the cheapest durian we ever came across. The flavor was delicious and on point. But for those who are not used to it, it may smell like stinky feet or rotten onion.

Here, the personalities of my traveling companions came to best exemplify them. Laurie did not hesitate to sit at a food stall or try chewing betel nut. Bobby, however, was constantly whispering in the background asking whether it was a good idea to be eating or drinking whatever our guide gave us. I think the combination of both caution and thirst for experience will serve our group well as we travel through this beautiful country.