This winter comes with a bad flu season. I was one such unlucky soul who had the flu that hit me like a Category 5 Hurricane deserving of a name. Then it morphed into a mean cold that left me weak and miserable. I couldn’t eat, barely slept, and felt like my inside was rotting. After I emerged from its claws, I was left a few pounds lighter and with a disabled taste palate.
But I had a girl trip planned. For those of us lucky enough to have loyal girlfriends we’ve known for most our lives, we know girl trips are sacred. It is when good friends dig themselves out of the heap of their busy lives to meet in one place and reconnect. Spend quality time. Have fun. So, I couldn’t miss it unless I was dying. And I was past death’s door.
This year we decided on New Orleans. Except for one, none of us had ever been there. We picked it for its jazz scene, the backdrop of French and Spanish colonial architecture, and its famous Creole food.
New Orleans’ heritage
New Orleans has an amazing history that speaks to its multi-lingual and multi-cultural heritage. It was a French colony founded in 1718. In 1763, the French ceded it to the Spanish Empire in the Treaty of Paris. Then it went back to the French in 1803. Shortly after, Napoleon sold it to the United States as part of the Louisiana Purchase. A flood of immigrants followed. Anglo-Americans, Germans, and Irish joined the Creole French and Spaniards, the refugees from Haiti, the Native Americans, the Mulattos or mixed-race people, and the Black slaves.
As one of the biggest southern ports, the city played a significant role in the slave trade. New Orleans was the nation’s largest slave market that supplied the surrounding sugarcane plantations and the rest in the south. The Civil War and the Emancipation Proclamation abolishing slavery changed its fabric. Many slaves left the plantations to join the Union military. Plantation owners lost a livelihood that fed their lavish antebellum estates and lifestyle. Slaves’ lives were no longer counted a part of New Orleans’ wealth. Over time it experienced a decline as more people migrated to the West coast where industries were growing.
With its unique culture and rich history, New Orleans has always been on my list of places to visit. I almost went there in 2005, but Hurricane Katrina happened. It devastated the city, drowning 80% of its land and killing 1,464 of its people. What it did not do was erase the friendly nature of its people nor ruin the strength of its spirit.
Twelve years later, I finally had my chance to experience New Orleans. I had dreams of eating fried chicken for breakfast, a mountain of crawfish for lunch, Étouffée for dinner, and beignets for midnight snack. But when my taste palate had short circuited and I could barely taste a thing, I had to re-jigger my plan.
Here’s a short list of the foods that I enjoyed. They woke up my pathetic palate, comforted my tummy and sandpaper-y throat, and fed my soul.
Citrus roasted chicken at Café Amelie
This cute restaurant was my first introduction to New Orleans’ culinary scene. Located in the French Quarter, it boasts a beautiful courtyard. At night it is lit with small hanging lights, making the setting romantic and dreamy. I usually do not order chicken at restaurants but I wanted something that was not going to shock my still battle-scarred throat. I was pleasantly surprised that I liked this simple dish as much as I did. The chicken was juicy and soft. The mashed potatoes that accompanied it was creamy and buttery. It was a sweet ‘hello, nice to meet you’ from the city.
Address: 912 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA
Raw oysters at Red Fish Grill
New Orleans is famous for its oysters. And I ate plenty of them. At 75 cents each during Happy Hour, the oysters at Red Fish Grill were cheap and cheerful. The fresh and sweet shellfish came with lemon wedges and cocktail sauce laced with horseradish. The ice-cold oysters went down smooth and soothed my throat.
Address: 115 Bourbon Street, New Orleans, LA
Chargrilled oysters at Acme Oyster House
Saturated in garlic, herb butter, and topped with a blend of cheeses, the chargrilled oysters were one of my favorite dishes in New Orleans. It came with slices of bread to soak up the delicious, ecstasy-induced sauce. We loved it so much we ordered it twice. I still think of it sometimes.
Address: 724 Iberville Street, New Orleans, LA
Shrimp bisque soup and Strawberry Shortcake at The Commander’s Palace
The Commander’s Palace has been an institution since 1893. With its robin’s egg blue Victorian architecture, you cannot miss this stately building in the Garden district. Most people go there for the 25-cent martinis. We went there after our walk at La Fayette Cemetery Number 1 where a part of “Interview with a Vampire” was filmed. The highlight at the Commander’s Palace was our waiter, Lorenzo. Originally from France, he migrated here in a move he called ‘destiny’. He treated us like special friends, embraced us with his gracious hospitality, and made recommendations that were thoughtful and surprising. He even escorted us to the restroom. What a gentleman!
The shrimp bisque soup was a soup du jour, and I was glad I ordered it. Its creaminess was balanced by the acidity from the tomato base. The shrimp was sautéed separately and had a delicious salty flavor. It was warm and comforting, just like our service. The shortcake is made of local fresh strawberries, served with buttermilk biscuit and topped with Chantilly whipped cream. It was a perfect ending to our meal.
Address: 1403 Washington Avenue, New Orleans, LA
Beignet and Café Au Lait at Café Du Monde
The 24-hour café sells my favorite beignets. They are crispy on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside. They’re served piping hot with a coat of powdered sugar that woke me up at first bite. But what I enjoyed even more was the Café Au Lait. It is mixed with chicory, a perennial herb that lives as a wild plant on roadsides in its native Europe. The Creole French developed this mix during the Civil War when coffee was a rare commodity. It softens the bitter flavor and adds almost a chocolate flavor, making the coffee nutty and mellow.
Address: 800 Decatur Street, New Orleans, LA
Chicken St. Charles Egg Benedict at the Ruby Slipper Café
Here was my chance to have fried chicken for breakfast. The Chicken St. Charles is made of fried chicken breast over a warm and crispy buttermilk biscuit, topped with two poached eggs. It was a quintessential southern dish, rich in calories and flavors.
Address: 1005 Canal Street, New Orleans, LA
Sukiyaki noodle soup at Sukhothai restaurant
Sukiyaki was originally a Japanese dish that transformed into one of the favorites in Thailand. It is a light soup made with vegetables, glass noodles, and seafood. What makes this dish special is the sauce of chili paste, fermented soybean, pickled garlic, sesame seeds, and cilantro. It’s not usually served in Thai restaurants in the U.S. We found Sukhothai in the Old French Quarter. The food there tasted as good as Thai food can be outside of the country. I ordered this dish mild with a side of extra sauce instead of the nuclear spiciness I usually enjoy, and it was delicious.
Address: 2200 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA
While I was disappointed in myself for not having my healthy taste palate in New Orleans, I made the best of it with what this diverse culinary city has to offer. I do plan to revisit and have a do over. Watch out New Orleans!